Friday, May 25, 2012

Wonderful wonderful Copenhagen


Our trip is over, and we’re back home in Windsor, California.  We’re still suffering somewhat from jet lag, but that’s getting better each day.  So here’s the last chapter in this trip’s blog.

We left Oslo, Norway mid-afternoon, and sailed down the fjord that leads to the North Sea.  Once out of the fjord, we encountered a wind that approached 65 knots and seas churned up by the wind.  For the rest of the afternoon and evening, the captain kept adjusting our course to minimize the effects of the wind and sea.  As we got closer to Copenhagen, the wind died and the sea calmed down.

We arrived in Copenhagen early in the morning; we were already docked by the time we woke up.  The departure schedule, which we had received the day before, listed our time for disembarkation as 8:45 AM, so we met our friends at a lounge/waiting area and enjoyed some coffee, juice and sweets.  When our time was called, we left the ship and reclaimed our luggage in a large tent set up on the dock.  The entire process went smoothly. 
Nyhavn
We had rented an apartment in Copenhagen, which we shared with our friends, Karl and Pam.  The others in our group were staying at the Copenhagen Marriott Hotel.  After calling to alert the apartment manager, we taxied to our apartment where we were met by a representative who showed us through the apartment.  It’s a large, bright, two bedroom unit in a building located off the street so traffic noise was non-existent.   It’s located in a neighborhood called, “Nyhavn” which means, “new harbor”, but it’s actually one of the oldest harbors in the city, dug by Swedish prisoners of war in the 17th century.  The canal itself is lined with old ships that probably have sailed for the last time, and the streets that line the canal are filled with restaurants, bars and hotels.  It’s a vibrant, popular neighborhood with locals and tourists alike.

After unpacking and getting settled in, we set out to explore the neighborhood, get a bite to eat, and find a grocery store for a few supplies we’d need for a six-night stay.  Copenhagen’s traffic, both cars and bicycles, is very heavy, but the drivers (and bikers) are as courteous as we’ve seen in any country, obeying stop lights and pedestrian right-of-ways.  After a few wrong turns, we found the grocery store, completed our purchases and started looking for a restaurant.  There was a cold wind blowing so we did not want to eat at any of the many sidewalk cafes, so instead we found a small café about three blocks from our apartment.  We enjoyed a fairly modest lunch with a beer, and then came to the realization that Copenhagen is a very expensive city.  Our lunch for four came to $118.  Wow!  At least the tip’s included in the bill throughout Denmark.

The next day, Saturday, we were treated to a walking tour of Central Copenhagen.  Karl is retired from law enforcement, and he’s a member of the International Police Association (IPA) which provides police contacts in cities and countries around the world.  Karl had been in email contact with Rene, a retired police administrator in Copenhagen, and he and his wife, Majbritt (pronounced Mybrit) met us at our apartment to show us around.  We walked to the Amalienborg Palace where Queen Margrethe II and the royal family live.  While there, we watched the changing of the guard at noon.  From there, we strolled along the pedestrian-only shopping street to the Christianborg Palace, site of the fortress built in 1167 from which Copenhagen grew.  Fire burned the palace several times over the centuries; the present palace was built in 1907.  The stable and other buildings behind the palace date back to the 1730’s though.  Adjacent to the palace is Denmark’s Parliament, where the actual job of running the country occurs.  Denmark is a constitutional monarchy, run by a prime minister and 179 members of parliament, made up of representatives from 8 political parties or so.  The queen has to sign all laws, but they are first passed by parliament.

From there we walked a few blocks to the Rådhuset or Town Hall.  At Rene’s suggestion, we stopped at a hot dog stand in front of the town hall for lunch.  It was delicious and cheap!  We watched a human rights protest gathering in front of the town hall before strolling one more block to Tivoli Gardens, where we met our “Marriott companions”.  Together we entered Tivoli, which opened in 1843.  It consists of gardens, amusement rides, theaters, restaurants and shops, and it is the most popular seasonal theme park in the world.  It is said that Tivoli was Walt Disney’s inspiration for Disneyland.  It opens each year in mid-April and closes on December 30.  We spent all afternoon and evening at Tivoli, seeing the sights, watching a couple of gospel concerts and eating both lunch and dinner in the park.  Just before the 10 PM closing, we headed back to our apartment.

Rosenborg Castle
Sunday morning we walked a few blocks to yet another castle, Rosenborg, built in 1606-34 as a summer castle, complete with a moat.   After about 100 years, another summer castle was erected in a suburb of Copenhagen.  Since that time, Rosenborg has been used primarily as a storehouse for royal family heirlooms, including the crown jewels and thrones.  We toured the 24 upper rooms, each as it was when their respective kings lived there, and also visited the basement rooms which contain the crown jewels, including many of the current queen’s emeralds and diamonds.  
From Rosenborg, we took our travel group to Nyhavn for lunch, followed by a visit to show off our apartment.   After our fellow travelers left to head back to their hotel, we hopped on a canal tour boat to see the city from the water.  Along with many areas we had seen on our walk, we also saw the new Opera House, built across the harbor from the central area, and the “Little Mermaid” of the Hans Christian Anderson fairy tale.   The statue was created in 1913 with funding from the Carlsberg Brewery.  She has been vandalized repeatedly, losing her head and arms on a couple of occasions.

On Monday, we took a “Hop-On, Hop-Off” bus tour of the city which took most of the day.  Debbie had spotted a Royal Copenhagen Porcelain Outlet on a brochure and wanted to visit it while on the bus tour.  When we stopped at the Copenhagen Zoo, we hopped off and headed for the Outlet.  Maps are deceiving, particularly when no scale is shown.  We walked more than a mile before we reached the store.  After deciding that most everything in the store was beyond our budget (imagine a cup and saucer for $100), Debbie bought a few small bud vases as gifts for folks back home, then we trudged back to the bus stop at the zoo (uphill this direction).  We also stopped at the Little Mermaid again, this time to see the front of the statue; she faces the land.

Memorial Wall
Around 7 PM that evening, Rene and Majbritt joined us; Majbritt took Debbie and Pam on a shopping trip, while Rene took Karl and Tom on a tour of Police Headquarters.  We visited the Central Police Station which is used as an administrative center, and saw a memorial wall which is dedicated to the many Copenhagen police personnel who were executed by the Nazis during WWII.  He also took us to a precinct station where patrol and investigative officers are located.  It was a very interesting tour. 

 Following that visit, he took us out of the central area to a large conference center and a brand new hotel with a strikingly different design.  It is 23 stories high with a penthouse bar and a spectacular view of the city!


The following day we caught a bus for a day-trip to Malmö, Sweden, about 30 KM east and just across a bridge from Copenhagen.  (This town is mentioned in the “Girl with the Dragon Tattoo” series of books.)  It’s an interesting city, much smaller than Copenhagen, but still, the third largest city in Sweden.  We walked along the central shopping street, visited the harbor and had a very good lunch at a Japanese restaurant in the central square.  From there, it was a little more shopping, then back on the bus to Copenhagen.  It was a short stay, but at least we can add Sweden to our list of countries visited.

On Thursday, Rene and Majbritt joined us again; this time for a trip to a small fishing village about 12 KM south of Copenhagen called Dragør.   Dragør has many well preserved historical buildings. The old part of the town is a cozy, picturesque maze of alleys with yellow-painted houses, thatched roofs, and cobblestone streets built in the traditional Danish style.  

Many of these buildings are hundreds of years old.  Dragør was a prosperous seafaring town in the latter half of the 19th century, and its charming harbor front is still in use by both pleasure and fishing boats.  The weather wasn’t particularly cooperative during our visit; wind and occasional rain and hail followed us around town.  We visited Dragør on Ascension Day, which is a holiday in Denmark, so some of the stores were closed, but many were open.  We had an excellent lunch at a local restaurant and did some souvenir shopping while there.  Following our bus ride back to our apartment, it was time to pack for home, as we were leaving the next afternoon.

On Friday we caught the Metro to the airport around 10:30 AM, in plenty of time to catch our flight at 1 PM.  We flew on a Lufthansa regional jet from Copenhagen to Munich, and then caught a non-stop Lufthansa flight to San Francisco.  We traveled across 9 time zones, arriving at SFO around 6:30 PM.  After grabbing our luggage and clearing customs, we stepped outside the terminal and there was an Airport Express bus to Santa Rosa at the curb.  We got to Santa Rosa around 9:45 and Debbie’s sister, Susie picked us up and took us home.  Brenda, our kitty sitter, had left the house in great shape with clean sheets and towels for us.  We fell into bed for a good night’s sleep, to be interrupted only by jet lag at 2:30 in the morning.  Bah!

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